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Mombasa & the Kenyan Coast-
Where the Sun is Ever Faithful
By Andrew Muigai
Kenya's 480 km coast is one of the principal attractions
for visitors to the country. Every year, hundreds of thousands of
sun lovers find their way here. Many are returning pilgrims who
truly know that the sun here is ever faithful. Unlike other beach
destinations, the visitor is served with much more than just sun
and sand but is delighted to discover ancient coastal forests and
historical sites and a people with a fascinating history and culture.
The casual visitor impressed by the tranquil beaches and gentle
people will not suspect the colourful and eventful history of these
realms.
For the tourist, the Kenyan coast can be seen as five regions. These
are: the town and island of Mombasa; the south coast -stretching
from Mombasa to the Tanzanian border 135 km away: the north coast-
covering the beaches from Mombasa up to Kilifi, 60 km away: Malindi
and Watamu about 130 km to the northeast of Mombasa and Lamu island
and archipelago, 225 km further up from Malindi. Each of these regions
has similarities in terms of history, culture, natural attractions
and beach experience. But as sports fans will understand, it is
the differences that matter to the dedicated fans of each region.
The gateway to the Kenyan coast is Mombasa. You get here by flying
into its international airport or by taking the 520 km road journey
from Nairobi, the common entry port for most visitors. If you demand
the freedom of your own car, consider taking a rental car either
in Nairobi on in Mombasa to help you get around. Review the options
you have for Kenya Car Rental and Kenya Domestic Flights as you
plan to get there.
Mombasa, the principal city at Kenya's coast is one of the oldest
human settlements on the eastern seaboard of the African continent.
Though it has without doubt been in existence for at least 700 years,
it is mentioned in writings of Arab, Roman and Egyptian travelers
dated as far back as 2,500 years ago. The Arabs came to trade and
settle, starting from about the 8th century AD. With the push of
the northeast monsoon, their dhows brought ironware, glassware,
textiles, and took home rhino horn, ivory and slaves. Substantial
settlements gradually developed and many traders settled and intermarried
with local Africans. The Arabs also brought along the message of
the Prophet and the Kenyan coast is even today predominantly Muslim.
Relative tranquility prevailed at the coastal towns until the Portuguese
showed up at the end of the 15th century. The Portuguese were a
substantial seafaring power of the day and were anxious to break
the stranglehold of the Ottoman Empire on Indian Ocean trade. Vasco
Da Gama opened the way for his compatriots when he made his way
round the southern tip of Africa and up to eastern Africa in 1498.
The Portuguese were not warmly received in Mombasa, but not so at
Malindi. The local sultan offered his ready friendship and proved
very useful to Da Gama by providing a pilot who knew how to get
to India, his ultimate destination.
Between the 15th and 19th centuries, Mombasa saw plenty of war.
For this reason, the city was nicknamed Mvita, which in Swahili
translates as Isle of War. Fort Jesus, the permanent garrison whose
construction was started by the Portuguese in 1593, changed masters
9 times before 1875. By the terror of war, the Portuguese sought
to control the east African coast. As colonial overlords, the Portuguese
were deficient in that they were mostly interested in plunder and
trade and did not establish robust systems of administration. Another
related difficulty they faced was that they were supplied from Goa
in India. The student of military theory will recognise this as
a classical case of "long supply lines".
The Portuguese were finally driven out by the emerging power of
Omani Arabs in 1729. The ascendancy of the Omani Arabs lasted until
Britain, a leading super power at the time, appeared at the beginning
of the 19th century. The British came in under the guise of a humanitarian
mission- the suppression of the slave trade. The Omani Arabs were
notorious slave traders. Christian missionaries put pressure on
the British government to persuade the Omani Arabs to pursue other
trade other than trafficking in humans. This is somewhat like the
problem the Americans face today in South America with respect to
the cocaine trade.
The British were actually successful in this, by using time honoured
carrot and stick tactics. Under the resulting deal, the Omani Arabs
whose headquarters was in Zanzibar were recognized as overlords
over a 16 km strip along the Kenyan coast. The sultan was to be
paid an annuity as compensation for resulting loss of revenue. This
territory acquired the status of a British Protectorate until 1963
when the Sultan of Zanzibar ceded it to the newly independent Kenyan
nation.
Mombasa is today a cosmopolitan metropolis reflecting the influence
of Africans, Persians, Arabs, Turks, Indians, Portuguese and the
British. The Old Town is a grid of narrow winding streets lined
with houses built to coastal Swahili and Indian styles. Some of
the houses have intricately carved doors similar to what you find
in Zanzibar and Lamu. In the Old Town you will find Fort Jesus,
the permanent garrison built by the hapless Portuguese. Fort Jesus,
in addition to being an attraction itself, houses a museum exhibiting
various artifacts reflecting the various cultures that have influenced
the Kenyan coast. You will also see articles recovered from the
ill-fated Portuguese warship Santo Antonio De Tanna, which sank
in the siege of 1697 that lasted 1000 days.
In Mombasa you can take an all day dhow trip and relive the experience
of the traders who sailed along the East African coast and as far
as India and the Persian Gulf aboard these vessels for centuries.
For the past few years, every November the Mombasa Carnival has
been staged in the town. The Carnival is a lively street parade
where you see incredibly adorned musicians and other artists from
the Kenyan coast and other parts of the country. Street comedians,
Swahili Taarab singers, Maasai warriors, brass bands and individual
artists in outrageous costumes brave the November heat to march
in the parade.
Visitors to the south coast usually head to Shelley, Tiwi, Diani,
Msambweni and Shimoni. These are the beaches to the south of Mombasa,
where hotel and resort development has taken place. To get to the
south coast beaches you need to take the ferry at Likoni, the southern
tip of Mombasa Island. If this does not suit you, take a flight
to Diani airstrip. Diani beach, 40 km from Mombasa is the most developed
beach at the south coast. This is the quintessential tropical paradise
and here you will find a wide range of hotels, including an 18-hole
golf resort. Though some of the other beaches are excellent, they
have limited range of accommodation and attract fewer people.
Shimoni, 100 km from Mombasa is a centre for serious deep-sea fishing.
It is also from Shimoni that you can visit the Kisite-Mpunguti Marine
National Park. Here you will see the treasures of Kenya's underwater
world. At the marine park, the snorkeling experience is outstanding
and on a lucky day you will swim with the dolphins. At Shimoni,
there are a series of deep coastal caves stretching from the sea
to deep inland. Arab slavers reportedly used these caves in the
dark days of the slave trade. The slaves who perished here are remembered
in Roger Whittaker's song "Shimoni".
At the south coast you have plenty of chances to indulge in some
thrilling marine activity such as water skiing, wind surfing, scuba
diving, goggling and deep-sea fishing. The Shimba Hills National
Reserve, directly inland from Diani is a surprise and you have the
opportunity to see some of the wildlife that Kenya is famed for.
Though the wildlife is not as prolific as in the upcountry game
parks, the beautiful rainforest and the spectacular Sheldrick Falls
make it worth a visit. You can also spend the night here at Kenya's
only tree lodge at the coast, which has some water holes where elephants
and other animals come for a drink.
The main attraction of the north coast is its beaches. Heading north
from Mombasa these are: Nyali, Bamburi, Shanzu, Vipingo and Kikambala.
Here you will find hotel and resort complexes to suit the taste
of most beach holiday enthusiasts. From your north coast base, you
may want to visit Mamba Village, reputed to be one of the worlds'
largest crocodile farms. Those interested in eco conservation projects
must not miss Haller Park. The park is named after the Swiss agronomist
who by sheer grit and vision transformed a huge abandoned cement
quarry into a spectacular 7 sq km nature and animal sanctuary.
At Mtwapa, just beyond Shanzu beach, Kenya Marineland houses some
very diverse marine life, which you view from a glass-sided underground
tunnel. From the same point, you can take a dhow sailing trip that
includes onboard entertainment - acrobatics, fire eating and local
dancers. Just off the coast, spectacular coral reefs teem with numerous
fish, sea turtles and dolphins. You have an opportunity for world-class
diving here, including some serious wreck diving. Diving at the
Kenyan coast is good year round, expect in the months of July and
August when silting and high seas are a problem.
Malindi has a history going back at least 800 years. This is the
only town along the east African coast where the Portuguese found
friendship without the persuasion of arms. Vasco Da Gama erected
a pillar to serve as a navigation aid that still stands. Today,
the town is a particular favourite with Italian visitors. Most of
the hotel and resort development are to the south of the town along
the Silversands beachfront and nearer town around Malindi Bay. At
Malindi Marine National Park, you can see some fascinating coral
gardens by diving, snorkeling or from a glass bottomed boat.
Malindi is a respected centre for big game fishing and several world
records have been set here. The writer Hemingway was here in the
1930's to enjoy one of his favourite macho sports. Watamu, 15 km
further south, is a small beach development around the beautiful
inlets of Turtle Bay and Blue Lagoon. Watamu too has its own Marine
Park. At the edge of the park, you find a collection of caves housing
a school of giant rock cod, some stretching the whole of 2 metres.
Consider making an excursion to Gedi Ruins, one of Kenya archeological
treasures. Gedi is estimated to have been founded in the 13th century
but was mysteriously abandoned in the 17th century. Experts guess
that marauding Galla tribesmen from up north did in the settlement.
Lamu has in recent years found favour with the international glitterati.
The town has an ambience of mediaeval romance that attracts those
who are offended by the burdens of our modern existence. Life in
the island goes on almost like it did in the 14th century when the
settlement was founded. Lamu has narrow streets and the town has
only a single car for use by the top government official. Everybody
else walks, takes a dhow or uses donkey taxis. If you come in by
air you land at nearby Manda Island, from where you take a dhow
or ferry. In this centre of Islamic culture, the men wear full-length
whites and the women are shorn head to toe in black.
Shela is the main beach on the island and is just 15 minutes away
by motorboat. You will find good rated accommodation at Lamu. There
are also some very pricey hideaways in the neighboring islands of
the archipelago favoured by the jet set. In the centre of the town,
you find a fort built by invading Omani Arabs in the early 19th
century that now serves as a cultural centre. Lamu museum is located
at the seafront, in a house once occupied by Jack Haggard, Queen
Victoria's consul in this then important outpost. The museum is
a repository of Swahili culture and on display are artifacts, dhows,
jewelry and crafts.
At Mombasa and the Kenyan Coast you will find rated accommodation.
Once you are there, you can take a break to view some of the wildlife
that the country is famed for. From Mombasa, the nearest park reachable
by road is Tsavo East, 4 hours away. Another good option is to fly
to the Maasai Mara, Kenya's top wildlife sanctuary and home to the
big five- elephant, lion, leopard, rhino and buffalo. There are
many Kenya safari options with Mombasa departures
The Kenyan coast has a tropical climate and it is a hot and humid
place. Temperatures year round vary between 22° C and 33°
C. July and August are the coolest months. Light clothing is recommended,
as even the evenings are usually warm. Short sleeve shirts, shorts
and trousers for men and short sleeve blouses, slacks and skirts
are sufficient. However, in this predominantly Muslim area, women
need to dress modestly so as not to offend local sensibilities.
But swimwear is perfectly acceptable at beaches and hotel premises.
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Copyright
© Africa Point
Author
Andrew Muigai is editor of AfricaPoint Insider online newsletter.
You can view more info on Kenya safari and tours at the website.
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on this web site is as accurate and current as possible. The information
is provided 'as is' and Africa Travel will not accept responsibility
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