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On Safari in South Africa-
Where Africa's Wildlife Never Disappoints
By Andrew Muigai
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South Africa continues to enjoy the tremendous goodwill
of holidaymakers worldwide. While travel to most long haul destinations
declined in 2003, this country experienced an enviable 6.5% growth,
according to the World Tourism Organisation. The growth was jump
started by the transformation heralded by the demise of apartheid
and onset of democratic rule in 1994. Apartheid polices of racial
discrimination protected by law greatly offended enlightened opinion
in many parts of the world. And the enemies of these policies launched
a very effective campaign against visiting South Africa. So it came
to be that South Africa, a truly superior destination by any standards,
remained hidden to many until the dark cloud of apartheid blew over.
The wildlife safari is a key item on the South Africa tourist menu.
Those who chose to see Africa's wildlife here will not be disappointed.
The game viewing experience is excellent at the top rated Kruger
National Park and at other well-regarded game parks in the country.
Wildlife is protected in over 300 public and private game and nature
reserves. SANParks (South African National Parks) manages 20 national
parks spread throughout the country.
Kruger is the place to see big game particularly the "big five"
- buffalo, elephant, lion, leopard and rhinoceros. Most of the other
parks have specialised in conserving particular species or are identified
with specific animals. The Greater Addo National Park, for example,
is the only place you find elephants in the Cape region. Some of
the parks along the 3000 km coastline host whales and dolphins.
South Africa's wildlife conservation policies are advanced and highly
successful. An initiative targeting wildlife sanctuaries cutting
across international boundaries hopes to replicate this success
elsewhere. This is in recognition of the fact that wildlife is no
respecter of territorial lines covenanted between men. Transfrontier
conservation areas have been identified in six regions along the
boundaries with Lesotho, Swaziland, Zimbabwe, Namibia, Botswana
and Mozambique.
In South Africa, the best places to see wildlife is at private game
reserves and national parks. Private game reserves are not as expansive
as the publicly owned national parks. Their key selling point is
the superior accommodation and ranger escorted personalized tours.
The national parks on the other hand are popular with self-drive
tourists. They offer accommodation in a limited number of enclosed
rest-camps, in thatched rondavels, bungalows and chalets. Tour companies
also offer South Africa safari packages, including transport and
guide in the national parks.
South Africa is home to numerous species of land animals, including
the celebrated "big five" - rhino, buffalo, lion, leopard
and elephant. Most members of the big five league are undoubtedly
charismatic. But this is not the reason they are so named - otherwise
I would petition that the buffalo be ejected. The reason is that
these are the animals the early safari hunters found most challenging.
The idea of viewing game without killing had not gained widespread
acceptance then. The arrogant practice of killing animals as a sport
is very unpopular today with those who value the right to life and
dignity of animals as full members of our planet.
In addition to the disagreeable aesthetics, hunting brings about
a bad relationship between man and the animals. I will illustrate
this with an incident narrated to me by a guide on a recent visit
to a country that allows hunting. The guide recalled an occasion
when he was taken by surprise to see an elephant charging at his
vehicle. This was contrary to his experience with elephants in that
region. This unusual behaviour arose because hunters had wounded
the elephant. The elephant hereafter dealt with vehicles and humans
as enemies. It is regrettable that South Africa's otherwise stellar
conservation policies, allow the practice of hunting in certain
areas.
Game viewing is usually done from the comfort of a vehicle but walking,
horseback, camel and canoeing safaris are increasingly becoming
popular. If you wish to view game in any of these modes, it is required
that you be accompanied by an armed ranger. Full blood adventure
types think that watching game aboard a vehicle is for wimps. Walking
safaris are designed for such hardy souls. And it is the reason
that the thoughtful folks at SANParks maintain a network of wilderness
trails in the parks. The typical walking safari will have a maximum
of eight persons with ages ranging from 12 to 60 years and last
for 2 nights and 3 days. Participants must obviously be physically
fit.
Without doubt, the best place to see wildlife, especially the "big
five" is Kruger National Park. This is the flagship of South
Africa's national parks. The Kruger was created in 1898 and owes
its existence to the vision of Paul Kruger at one time president
of the Transvaal Republic that later became part of the Union of
South Africa. He was ahead of his time in recognizing the need to
create a sanctuary to preserve and protect wildlife. Even at that
time it was clear that the hunter with his rifle would soon annihilate
all the animals.
Kruger offers a diversity of animals unrivalled anywhere else in
South Africa. In addition to the big five, some of the interesting
game you find here include - hippo, jackal, giraffe, zebra, buffalo,
warthog, numerous antelope species, cheetah, wild dog and spotted
hyena. The park is home to more than 140 mammal and 500 bird species.
Kruger spreads over nearly 20, 000 sq km of unspoilt scrubland punctuated
by acacia and mopane trees. The botanic biodiversity is vast and
over 336 tree species are found here.
Accommodation within Kruger is provided at self-catering rest camps
that offer good but basic lodging. There are also some smaller bush
lodges and bushveld camps offering more luxurious stay. Accommodation
ranges from rondavel huts and safari tents to family bungalows and
cottages and luxury guesthouses. In addition, there are caravan
and tent camping sites at some of the rest camps. Most of the camps
are supplied with electric power and telephone. Other facilities
include shops, kitchen facilities, restaurants and petrol stations.
Kruger has 3,000 kilometers of a well-maintained road network and
is ideal for those seeking a self-drive experience. The park is
relatively inexpensive and easily accessible. It is therefore hugely
popular and draws over 600,000 visitors annually. It in particular
gets very crowded over the school holidays in July and December.
Since there are a maximum number of vehicles allowed into the park
daily, you are well advised to make advance arrangements if you
plan to visit then. Game viewing is good year round, but the best
time will be from April to September when the bush is sparse.
Kruger is located 330 km to the northeast of Johannesburg. If you
have no stomach for a long drive, take one of the daily flights
from Johannesburg to Phalaborwa Airport, Hoedspruit Airport or Kruger/Mpumalanga
International Airport. Towards the western and southern sides of
Kruger National Park, there are a number of highly rated private
game reserves. This includes Sabi Sand, Mala Mala, Londolozi and
Timbavati game reserves. Here you will find some of the finest game
lodges in Africa.
The Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park is another unique game sanctuary.
This huge park is a combination of the two parks -the former Gemsbok
National Park in Botswana and Kalahari Gemsbok National Park in
South Africa. Covering over 36,000 sq km, it is one of the biggest
wildlife conservation areas anywhere in the world. The landscape
is marked by red sand dunes and sparse thornbush vegetation. The
environment of this park provides outstanding opportunities for
unforgettable wildlife photos.
This park is host to the famous black-maned Kalahari lions. You
will also see gemsbok, springbok, eland, blue wildebeest, cheetahs,
wild dogs, jackals, bat-eared foxes and leopards. Birding is also
excellent and of 297 species recorded, 96 are resident. The Kgalagadi
is not for the fainthearted -it is far from anywhere and getting
there is a slog. It is located 904 km to the west of Johannesburg.
All accommodation in the park is managed by SANParks. You will get
the best experience if you visit between June and July when the
weather is coolest.
On a South Africa safari, remember to carry a pair of binoculars
to help you spot animals. Also carry a camera and other equipment
as a means of recording your safari. It is the only way to shut
up those who doubt the story of your encounter with the African
wildlife. Carry along a decent pair sunglasses to shield you from
glare, especially if you travel to the semi desert Kgalagadi. Dressing
well means cool clothing (such as light cottons and linen) for summer
and warm for winter.
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Copyright
© Africa Point
Author
Andrew Muigai is editor of AfricaPoint Insider online newsletter.
You can view more info on South Africa tours at the website.
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